H11

Question 1

what has an effect on the coast line?

Answer 1

1. wind
2. waves
3. tide

Question 2

how do waves influence the coast line?

Answer 2

waves deliver energy that can change the form and structure of the coast line

Question 3

what happens when a wave reaches the bottom? the ….

Answer 3

1. speed decreases
2. wave length decreased
3. wave height increases

Question 4

what can occur at uneven depths?

Answer 4

refraction (ombuiging)

Question 5

what can occur with a large increase in wave height?

Answer 5

the wave can become unstable and break

Question 6

currents along the coast have 2 components

Answer 6

1. to the coast (onshore)

2. along the coast (longshore)

Question 7

what happens when two longshore currents meet each other?

Answer 7

a rip-current (muistromen) can occur.

Question 8

what also causes a rip current?

Answer 8

a combination of morphology and outgoing water

Question 9

how to espace a riptide

Answer 9

1. don’t panic
2. don’t go against the current
3. try to get the attention of beachgoers or the lifegaurd through calling and waving your arms
4. swim diagonally right or left away from the current and swim back to shore as soon as the current decreases, so that you land on a sandbank where you can stand again.

Question 10

sediment transport along the coast

Answer 10

1. dependent on weather conditions and the strength of waves
2. has an effect on the coastal profile
3. often seasonally bound

Question 11

sediment transport along the coast in the summer

Answer 11

in the summer, it is a swell profile. this is caused by a calm swell (deining). waves have little energy. sand piles up causing growth of the beach. characterised by a wide beach that is sloping steeply

Question 12

sediment transport along the coast in the winter

Answer 12

in the winter, it is a storm profile. this is caused by a stormy rough sea with waves of high energy. sand is eroded which causes decrease in size of the beach. characterised by a small beach with a flatter descent. also characterised by bar migration: moving of sand banks

Question 13

sand budget

Answer 13

supply - disposal sediment = sand budget

Question 14

negative sand budget

Answer 14

decrease in coastal strip (kuststrook). it is problematic for safety, economy and ecology

Question 15

neutral sand budget

Answer 15

conservation coast (upkeep –> instandhouding)

Question 16

positive sand budged

Answer 16

increase in coastal strip (kuststrook)

Question 17

how can sand budget be locally regulated?

Answer 17

1. river input
2. longshore drift
3. undersea canyons (onderzeese kloven)

Question 18

what is optimal for the forming of dunes?

Answer 18

1. enough sand
2. enough wind
3. large tidal wave (getijslag)
4. beach with long and gradual expiration

Question 19

where are new dune formings found?

Answer 19

on seasides with onshore winds

Question 20

how do dunes migrate?

Answer 20

transport from windward (loefzijde) to leeward (lijzijde) called slumping. creates walking dunes!

Question 21

what plays an important role in the stabilisation of a dune?

Answer 21

vegetation

Question 22

dunes and coastal defence

Answer 22

1. dunes form a natural part of coastal defence

2. dunes are still prone to erosion though so good management is essential

Question 23

barrier islands

Answer 23

barrier islands are islands built out of sediments and are often parallel to the coast; they are parted from the land through relatively shallow water. for example, the wadden eilanden

Question 24

what is needed to create a barrier island?

Answer 24

1. large quantity of sediment

2. gradually sloping sea bottom in the direction of open water

Question 25

more theories of the forming of barrier islands

Answer 25

1. isolation of ridges and banks through rising sea level 2. separation of headlands (landtongen) through storms 3. gradual rising of sand banks

Question 26

process of barrier island formation

Answer 26

1. submergence of a coastal sand ridge 2. segmentation of a land spit 3. emergence of a longshore bar

Question 27

typical structure of a developed barrier island has:

Answer 27

1. gradual slope nearshore zone 2. dune row(s) 3. hinterland (achterland) 4. salt marshes

Question 28

barrier islands have the tendency to "walk"

Answer 28

1. long term: through sea level rising | 2. short term: through onshore and longshore currents

Question 29

erosion of the hard coast happens through:

Answer 29

1. wave action 2. pressure changes in cavities (holten) en cracks (scheuren) 3. sediment against the coast 4. loosening of some stones

Question 30

speed whereby cliffs are eroded is dependent on:

Answer 30

1. composition of material 2. weaker places 3. amount of precipitation (neerslag) 4. slope of the cliff

Question 31

process of cliff recession:

Answer 31

1. runoff 2. slumping 3. mud flows 4. ground water 5. longshore drift

Question 32

what is the morphology of a rock coast after erosion?

Answer 32

wave-cut platform

Question 33

not only the base but also erosion effects higher up on...

Answer 33

1. goats 2. cows 3. donkeys

Question 34

delta

Answer 34

an area where accumulation of sediment occurs by the mouth of a river.

Question 35

how is sediment deposited in a delta

Answer 35

deposition of sediment through decreasing current speed.

Question 36

what is a delta often part of?

Answer 36

a larger transition area... estuarium

Question 37

morphology of deltas on the basis of dominant factors:

Answer 37

1. river 2. waves 3. tides

Question 38

river processes of deltas:

Answer 38

typical fanned out delta form (triangle)

Question 39

wave processes of deltas:

Answer 39

dispersion along the coast, coast is relatively skewed right

Question 40

tidal processes of deltas:

Answer 40

long sand banks and gullies (geulen) from the river mouth to the sea

Question 41

how do people attempt to stabilise the coast line?

Answer 41

1. influence longshore currents 2. redirect wave energy (against erosion) 3. artificially strengthen coast line

Question 42

building with nature

Answer 42

1. mussel and oyster farms as natural wave breaker 2. sand marshes for lowering of wave energy against the coast 3. recent example with huge human interference is marker wadden